Drain Training in Oklahoma City

While setting up a bathtub in your Oklahoma City home, one of the crucial steps that need to be undertaken is to set up a bathtub drain. There are three types of tubs available in the market and installation of a bathtub drain is common to all of them. These are tubs set on legs, tubs set on a base and a built-in tub. The bathtub drain kit comes in a variety of finishes, chrome, bronze, nickel and brass. You will need to do some preparation. If you have an existing bath tub, remove the plaster and drywall. For a new bathtub setup, you will need to assemble the following tools.

• Glue
• Plumber’s putty
• Drain assembly
• Trap pipe
• Swivel connector with washers
• Screwdriver
• Pliers

Step 1: Bathtub

The bathtub should be installed and put in place in your Oklahoma City bathroom.

Step 2: Fix Drain

Take the drain assembly, remove nuts and washers from it and put the plumber’s putty under the rim of the drain. After doing this, the drain rim should be put under the drain hole. It should be held firmly for some time.

Step 3: Fix Gasket and Nuts

The rubber gasket on the bathtub should be put on the part that hooks to the tub. Slide the nut and washer onto the overflow pipe as well as the drain shoe. A drain T-fitting needs to be put on the overflow pipe. Connect the drain and overflow pipes to the drain T-fitting. Tighten the nuts with pliers. While doing this, care should be taken that too much pressure is not applied.

Step 4: Connect the Trap

A drain T-fitting needs to be put on the overflow pipe. The drain and overflow pipes need to be connected with the drain T-fitting and the nuts need to be tightened with pliers. The trap on the plastic pipe needs to be pulled down far enough so that the tailpiece can be fitted onto the bottom of the T-fitting. During this process, ensure that the connections are made evenly and fittings are not used in the wrong position. The pipes should also have been measured to the correct size.

Step 5: Tailpiece

A thin coat of pipe joint compound needs to be applied to the threads on the tailpiece. This needs to be fitted into the T-fitting on the trap pipe.

Step 6: Nuts and Washers

Slip the nut and washer onto the tailpiece. These need to be tightened appropriately.

Step 7: Trip Waste and Stopper

Connect the trip waste by feeding the linkage into the overflow tube opening in the tub. In case of a pop-up plug, the trip lever should be left open. In case of a plunger, the drain screen should be put over the drain.

Step 8: Check and Test

There should be no loose connections. All the connections should be reinforced with glue. There should be no leakages. Check and test by filling the bathtub with water and then draining it.

Should you encounter any difficulties, call your Oklahoma City plumber to complete the job easily and efficiently.
Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/bathtub-drain-installation#ixzz1ur9z9FZ3

If you are looking for a professional Oklahoma City plumbing company, then please call us today at 405-802-7769 or complete our online request form.

 

Low-Flow Lowdown

Contrary to popular myth, plumber Thomas Crapper did not invent the flush toilet. One of his contemporaries, though, did create the first toilet that prevented sewer gases from entering the home. Englishman Joseph Adamson’s 1853 design — the siphon flush — eventually made obsolete both the chamber pot and the outhouse. Adamson’s invention, like all modern toilets, relies on the tendency of a moving liquid to continue flowing, even in defiance of gravity: The tank is kept full, and during a flush, the water rushes into the bowl, creating a surge over the weir (or dam). The flow stops when the bowl is empty, and the tank refills in preparation for the next flush.

Originally, tanks were placed high above the bowl to get water moving forcefully enough to clear the weir, but by 1915, narrower, smoother porcelain passageways allowed quieter, 5- to 7-gallon tanks to be mounted on the backs of bowls. The next giant leap in toilet technology came in 1994, when federal law restricted tanks to 1.6 gallons per flush, but to those who used the first generation of low-flow toilets, this leap seemed more of a stumble. “They often needed two flushes,” says This Old House plumbing and heating consultant Richard Trethewey. Manufacturers largely fixed that problem by further modifying the passageways to move a reduced amount of water more vigorously into the bowl.

Anatomy of a Low-Flow Toilet

FLUSH LEVER: Pulls the lift chain.

LIFT CHAIN: Opens the flapper. A chain float limits the flush to 1.6 gallons by closing the flapper when the tank has drained to a set level.

OVERFLOW TUBE: Protects against an accidental overfilling of the tank.

FLOAT: Shuts a valve on the supply line when the tank level reaches a predetermined depth.

FLAPPER: Releases tank water into the bowl. When released by the chain float, drops against the flush valve seat, sealing the tank so it can refill.

TRAP: Holds water in the bowl, blocking the entry of sewer gases, until the flow from the tank pushes the water over the weir.

SIPHON JET: Concentrates flow from the tank, jump-starting the siphoning effect.

RIM HOLES (not shown): Release water during the flush, cleaning the sides of the bowl.

You can easily integrate this water-saving fixture into your home. your Oklahoma City plumber can fill you in on the best low-flow toilet for your Oklahoma City home and can handle the installation of your low-flow toilet easily and efficiently.

 

Article Source: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/article/0,,213021,00.html

If you are looking for a professional Oklahoma City bathroom remodeling contractor, then please call us today at 405-802-7769 or complete our online request form.

Sorting Out Washers in Oklahoma City

There are variations in clothes washers, but all are basically big tubs that fill with water, agitate to scrub clothes, and then spin to wring out the water. Of course, in addition to these basic functions, they may have any number of sophisticated features. Most types also incorporate an electronic timer and controls.

Because a washing machine is a large consumer of both energy and water, the key to selecting the right one is to purchase the most energy-efficient model that fits your lifestyle and space and to always use the right amount of detergent for the washer and your Oklahoma City water hardness.

In terms of lifestyle, think about how often you use the washer and what you wash. If you wash often, you will get the best performance from a stainless-steel tub. Those who wash less frequently will probably do fine with porcelain-coated steel or high-grade plastic.

If your wash includes a variety of fabrics and levels of dirtiness, choose a machine that offers specialty cycles such as delicate and extra soak, as well as one for a second rinse. Multiple water-level settings ensure the most efficient wash for loads of different sizes. Some machines can boost water temperature to sanitize a load.

For those with limited space in their Oklahoma City homes, there are stacking washer-dryer units in either full-size or apartment-size capacities. Remember that the size of your washer should match your dryer’s capacity.

Other items to consider are automatic temperature regulators (a must in cold climates, they ensure that wash water comes in at a constant temperature for the setting) plus additional insulation and reinforced frames, both of which reduce noise.

When buying a new washer, pay careful attention to the warranty. Be clear about both the term and the extent of the coverage. Also be aware that some washing machines are much easier to work on than others. Some new types have a cabinet that is easy to detach and lift off for easy access to the parts.

There are two styles of washer: top-load, which is the most common, and front-load, which provides the greatest energy efficiency.

A top-loading machine, also known as a V-axis because the agitator turns on a vertical axis, allows you to access the wash tub without bending. While a top loader costs less initially, it is less energy efficient in the long run. It uses regular detergent and offers the greatest selection of models and options.

A front-loading machine, called an H-axis because its agitator turns on a horizontal axis, is gaining in popularity because of its energy efficiency. This type uses from one-third to one-half the amount of water of a top loader, which also means that much less heating. And, because it spins faster, clothes come out needing less time in the dryer. Although they save on energy costs, front loaders are more expensive at purchase, and some require a special detergent.

Your Oklahoma City plumber can inform you as to what is available and which is most suited to your needs. Once you have reached a decision, your plumber can also take care of the plumbing installation should you need assistance.

 

Article Source: http://www.hometips.com/buying-guides/washing-machines.html

If you are looking for a professional Oklahoma City plumber, then please call us today at 405-802-7769 or complete our online request form.

Tear Down That Wall!

Opening up, modifying, or entirely removing one or more walls is relatively easy but guaranteed to make a mess. In addition, you must patch the floor, walls, and ceiling.

Before you remove any wall studs, you must determine whether or not the wall is a bearing wall—part of your Oklahoma City home’s structural system

Be aware that plumbing, wiring, or other mechanical equipment within a wall can make removal far more involved. Rerouting plumbing, in particular, can add significantly to the work. If this proves too difficult a task, your Oklahoma City plumber is trained to quickly and efficiently remove walls.

To prepare for demolition, mask off the area with plastic sheeting to prevent the dust from permeating your home, and protect the floor with drop cloths. Turn off the electrical circuits that supply power to receptacles, light switches, and wires in the wall. Pry off any moldings.

To remove gypsum wallboard (drywall), punch through the center of the panel with a hammer and use a prybar to extract the pieces. To dispose of plaster and lath, smash the plaster with a sledge hammer and then pry off the lath.

1. Pry any remnants of surface material off the studs of the wall you intend to take out. On the walls that adjoin it, remove the surface material back to the first stud. Pull any remaining nails from all exposed studs.

2. Make sure water and electrical circuits are turned off and then remove any wiring or plumbing from the wall; properly cap pipes and terminate circuits. If you’re unfamiliar with this type of work, call an Oklahoma City electrical or Oklahoma City plumbing contractor.

3. Knock out any fire blocks between the studs. Cut through all the studs except the end ones a few inches up from the floor. Pull and twist the upper lengths of the studs to free them from the top plate. Using a hammer, knock over the short stud blocks at the base and pry them up. Pull out or cut off any remaining nails.

4. Make a diagonal cut through each end stud at a downward angle and then pry out the two pieces, beginning with the lower half. Pull them free from the top and bottom plates and the anchoring studs in the adjoining walls.

5. If the top plate goes through the adjoining wall, cut it flush with that wall’s top plate. Remove the top plate by making a diagonal cut across it and then wedging a prybar between the two halves and pulling downward. Pull out any remaining nails.

6. As with the top plate, if the bottom plate goes through the adjoining wall, cut it flush at the end first. Then make an angled cut across it, taking care not to cut the floor. Pry up the plate and pull out any remaining nails.

Article Source: http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/wall-open-up.html

If you are looking for a professional Oklahoma City plumber, then please call us today at 405-802-7769 or complete our online request form.

The Sumpiest Pump in Oklahoma City

Sump Pump Basics

 

­A sump pump usually stands in a sump pit — a hole with a gravel base about 2 feet (60 centimeters) deep and 18 inches (45 centimeters) wide — dug in the lowest part of your Oklahoma City basement or crawlspace. As the pit fills with water, the pump turns on. It moves the liquid out of the pit through pipes that run away from your home to a spot where the water can drain away from your foundation. The pipe usually has a one-way valve called a check valve at the pump end to keep the water from flowing back into the pit.

Most sump pumps turn on automatically through a float activator arm or a pressure sensor. The pressure sensor works just like its name suggests: Water exerts more pressure on the sensor than air does, which causes the pump to activate. The float activator works a lot like the one in your toilet tank. A buoyant ball floats on top of the water, manually moving the arm as the water level rises. You can also buy a manually operated pump, which works only when you decide to turn it on, but these aren’t as common because of their lack of convenience. Automatic pumps also have an option for you to activate the pump if the float arm or sensor should fail to work.

The typical home sump pump uses a centrifugal pump to move water. When the motor is on, it causes a screw- or fanlike device called an impeller to turn. Using centrifugal force, the spinning impeller forces water toward the sides of the pipe, creating a low-pressure area at its center. Water from the pit rushes to fill the void, and the impeller’s spinning action pushes it out through the pipe.

Sump pumps for Oklahoma City home use are powered by electricity and use standard household current, so they don’t require specialized wiring beyond a grounded outlet. Since the pump is always in or near water, it’s a good idea to have a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) on the outlet to prevent accidental electrocution.

There are two primary sump pump designs, both of which are about 2 1/2 to 3 feet (76.2 to 91 centimeters) high. A submersible pump rests in the water. It’s encased in a waterproof housing, with the pump itself at the bottom and the outlet pipe near the top. A flat screen or grate covers the bottom of the pump to keep out debris. When the pump turns on, water is sucked up through the grate and routed into the pipes and out of your home.

The other common type of sump pump is the pedestal pump. Pedestal pumps look something like a long stick with a fat head. The pedestal keeps the pump out of the pit, away from the water even when the pit is full. An inlet pipe reaches down into the bottom of the pit to draw the water out. Since the motor and pump are out of the water, pedestal pumps are usually louder — but less expensive — than submersible pumps.

Read on to learn whether you need one of these pumps in your home and what to do to keep it working once it’s installed.

Choosing a Sump Pump

­Depending on the laws in Oklahoma City, you may not need a sump pump. For example, if you’ve never had standing water in your basement and it’s consistently warm and dry, a sump pump probably wouldn’t do you much good. However, if the area under your house floods occasionally or feels damp and smells musty, there’s a good chance y­ou have an issue with moisture entry. Along with other waterproofing steps, a sump pump would make your basement a healthier space and protect any possessions and appliances you store there.

One way you can check whether moisture is getting into your Oklahoma City home through your basement floor or walls is by taping a 2-foot-square (61-centimeter-square) piece of plastic onto surface and leaving it in place for a day or two. If you’re not sure where the moisture may be coming in, it’s a good idea to do this in multiple spots. After a couple of days, check under the plastic — if it’s wet, you have a moisture problem.

The first step in dealing with basement moisture is to air it out and run a dehumidifier. Since most moisture that ends up in a basement comes from water draining around your foundation, check to see that your gutters and downspouts are in good repair and directing water at least 6 feet (1.8 meters) away from your foundation. In a couple of weeks, repeat your plastic sheet test — if it shows moisture, a sump pump may be a good idea.

Since sump pumps have many options available, when choosing one, you need to make some decisions:

• Manual or automatic: Although manually operated sump pumps are available and slightly less expensive, an automatic pump is far more convenient.
• Horsepower: Sump pumps are commonly one-quarter to one-third horsepower. More powerful motors will pump more water, but you don’t need to go overboard if your moisture problem is minor.
• Head pressure: Head pressure is the height a pump can raise water. For example, a pump with head pressure of 12 feet (3.7 meters) can raise water to that height, minus about 10 percent for physical limitations like bends in pipes. The pump you choose must be able to lift water out of the sump pit and up to the outlet pipe.
• Cord length: You n­eed to be able to plug a sump pump directly into a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet — you shouldn’t plug one into an extension cord.
• Voltage: Most sump pumps for use in U.S. homes operate on standard 110-volt circuits. Pumps with 220 or 4690 volts are available but are more commonly used in industrial applications.
• Backup and alarm systems: Choose the alarm notification and backup system that fits with your personal lifestyle.

Sump Pump Installation

 

You can have your professional Oklahoma City plumber install a sump pump in your home, but if you’re a reasonably handy person, it may be a job you can take on yourself. Here’s an overview of how to install a sump pit and pump in your basement if you should decide not to have a plumber install your sump pump.

1. Determine where water, sewer and utility lines enter your home. You want to put your sump pit away from this ­  existing infrastructure at the lowest point of your basement (you can use a laser level to determine this point). The pump should be at least 8 inches (20 centimeters) away from an outside wall and close to a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet.
2. Figure out how you are going to route the outlet pipe — usually 1 1/2 inch to 2 inch (3.8 to 5 centimeter) PVC. Running it up through a rim joist is usually the easiest way to get the pipe to the outside.
3. Purchase your sump pump and liner together. The liner, essentially a heavy plastic tub with slits to allow water to enter, will determine the size of the hole you dig. You want to dig the hole at least 3 inches (7.6 centimeters) wider than the liner and about 6 inches (15.2 centimeters) deeper. You can use the liner as a starting template and enlarge your outline by 3 inches (7.6 centimeters).
4. Dig the hole to the depth recommended by the sump pump manufacturer, then level the bottom. The easiest way to cut through the concrete is to use a jackhammer.
5. Put the liner into the hole and fill around the outside with coarse gravel. Also put about 6 inches (15 centimeters) of gravel in the bottom of the pit. Tamp it down firmly to ensure the bottom stays level.
6. Attach the discharge pipe to the pump, and place the pump into the pit, making sure it stands upright and level.
7. Cut a piece of PVC drain pipe 1 foot (30.5 centimeters) long. Drill a hole in the rim joist to accommodate the discharge pipe and install it in the hole.
8. Measure and cut pieces of PVC pipe to run from the pump to the inside of the pipe through the rim header. Dry fit all the pieces, and when you’re sure they are right, cement them together.
9. On the outside, fit a piece of discharge pipe onto the pipe protruding through the rim header. Run it to the discharge area, then cement the pipe in place. The discharge pipe shoul­d have a small vent hole that’s out of the water but drains into the pit. This vent hole is designed to prevent an air lock from forming in the lower part of the pump.
10. Finish up by caulking around the hole in the rim header both inside and outside and supporting the discharge pipe inside the house by attaching it to walls or joists.
11. Finally, adjust the float valve on the pump following the manufacturer’s directions. Check the operation by pouring in two or three buckets of water, then plug in the pump.

Sump Pump Maintenance

 

­Most sump pumps are equipped with water level or flood alarms, usually battery powered, that alert you if the pump isn’t working properly and water is backing up. More sophisticated systems can notify your alarm company or call your cell phone if the water starts to rise. Fortunately, this shouldn’t happen often. Sump pumps on the whole are quite reliable. But as with any other important piece of equipment, regular maintenance is always a good idea. Spend a few minutes every couple of months, when heavy rains are forecast and in early spring to ensure reliable sump pump operation. Basic sump pump maintenance is usually as simple as doing these few jobs.

• Make sure the pump is plugged in to a working ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) outlet and the cord is in good shape. In damp areas, GFCI ­breakers may trip, effectively shutting off the sump pump. Check in on your sump pump periodically so you can reset the GFCI if necessary.
• Ensure the pump itself is standing upright. Vibrations during operation can cause it to fall or tilt onto one side. This can jam the float arm so it can’t activate the pump.
• Periodically pour a bucket of water into the pit to make sure the pump starts automatically and the water drains quickly once the pump is on. If the pump doesn’t start, have it serviced.
• Physically remove a submersible pump from the pit and clean the grate on the bottom. The sucking action of the pump can pull small stones into the grate, blocking the inlet or damaging the pump over time.
• Ensure the outlet pipes are tightly joined together and draining out at least 20 feet (6 meters) away from your foundation.
• Make sure the vent hole in the discharge pipe is clear.

Another important point is the sump pump’s power supply. The fact that sump pumps rely on electricity to operate does make them vulnerable in the event of a power outage. Fortunately, there are backup options available. For some people, at least those on municipal water systems — and assuming the city water system is still functional — water-powered sump pumps that don’t need any electricity are an option. These pumps literally use the pressure of flowing water to pump water out of the sump. The downside to this design is that the pumping process uses virtually the same amount of city water as the quantity of water it pumps out. So, while water-powered pumps aren’t necessarily a good choice for a main pump, they offer a viable option for a short duration backup pump.

Sump pumps with backup battery power are also commonly available. The backup power comes from a car battery — or even better, a deep cycle boat battery. Most of the systems charge the batteries while the power is on, ensuring the battery is fully charged in the event of a power outage. Alternatively, a trickle charger used for car batteries is also an option.

Some Oklahoma City homeowners use backup gasoline or diesel generators to provide their own electricity in the event of a power outage. Since a small sump pump needs 800 to 100 watts to operate and can draw up to 1,800 watts when starting, a backup generator needs to be sized properly and, of course, well maintained.

 

Article Source: http://home.howstuffworks.com/home-improvement/plumbing/sump-pump4.htm

If you are looking for a professional Oklahoma City plumber, then please call us today at 405-802-7769 or complete our online request form.

 

 

Conserve H2O, Save $$ With Dual Flush

Dual flush toilets are exactly what they claim to be: toilets that give you the option to choose from two different flushes. Why? Because, to put it plainly, it doesn’t take as much water to send number one packing as it does to get rid of number two. By purchasing a toilet with both a low and high volume flush, you’ll cut the water your toilet uses by more than half, not only saving you a bundle of money over the course of the toilet’s lifetime, but doing some good from an environmental standpoint as well.

How Much Difference Can Two Separate Flushes Make?
The answer to this question is shocking. Studies of dual flush toilets show that using a dual flush system as opposed to a conventional one can reduce water consumption by up to 67%. In fact, the water savings are so substantial that several nations, such as water starved Australia, have passed laws requiring that all new toilets installed are of this variety. There are even municipalities in the United States, all from areas where drought is a major concern, where similar statutes have been passed in an effort to conserve dwindling water resources.

Growing Industry
Dual flush toilets are only just catching on in the United States and the rest of North America. The double flush idea is relatively new technology to start with (these toilets first hit the international market little more than a decade ago), and these innovative bathroom fixtures haven’t been so easy to turn up in the U.S. until recently. However, a growing concern about the state of our environment, coupled with the widespread occurrences of drought that have plagued many areas of the United States, have prompted a slew of companies to dive into the business, making these pioneering toilets fairly easy to track down for the wise Oklahoma City homeowner looking to save money and natural resources.

 

Cutting Edge Designs
The other plus of dual flush toilets is their innovative design and appearance. Because they are a relatively new product, and because this soon to be booming market is a highly competitive one, companies are scrambling to make them as comfortable, aesthetically pleasing, and easy to use as possible. They come in a variety of cutting edge styles, including different styles of flushing mechanisms. Newer models with two buttons, one for each flush, are highly recommended over the push/pull models, mostly because they cut down on inadvertent “misflushes,” or choosing the high volume flush when it isn’t needed. Sounds crazy, but if you’re making a midnight trip to the bathroom or still groggy early in the morning, you don’t want to have stand there and contemplate whether to push or pull the handle in order to do right by your pocketbook and the environment.

Tricky Plumbing
The only drawback of these toilets is the plumbing required to facilitate a dual flush system. It’s much more complicated than your average toilet installation and over the head of your average do-it-yourselfer. When you choose to have a dual flush toilet installed in your Oklahoma City home, it’s best to contact your professional Oklahoma City plumber in order to ensure that your new water and money saving toilet operates exactly the way it’s supposed to and is problem free for years to come.

Why Pick Pex Plastic Plumbing Pipe?

One of the most widely used and cost effective new plumbing solutions to hit the market in decades is pex plumbing. Pex tubing is plastic plumbing pipe that is perfect for residential use. It’s easy to install, cheaper than traditional copper plumbing, and has a great track record when it comes to performance. It is presently one of the most commonly used plumbing materials in new home building, making it the perfect choice if you’re looking for a functional, cost effective, solution to replacing or installing plumbing in your Oklahoma City home.

Pex Tubing is the Best Buy on the Market
Perhaps the greatest draw to using pex pipe for your plumbing needs is cost. From materials right on down to installation, it is hands down the most cost effective plumbing an Oklahoma City homeowner can buy. It’s cheaper from the get go from a materials standpoint, and because it can be installed in longer, flexible, lines, using less fittings, you’ll also save on the extra fixtures and fittings that copper plumbing requires. And when it comes to installation, there is no comparison. The flexibility, light weight, and easy fitting of pex tubing drastically cuts down on the time it takes to re-plumb a house, or install it in a new home build, translating into big savings on labor costs. Top to bottom, pex plumbing is one of the best buys on the market.

Pex Tubing and Performance
From a performance standpoint, pex pipe also seems to beat out traditional materials. You don’t need to worry about using it as a potable water delivery system, since it’s proven to be even more resistant to common chemicals found in water systems than traditional plumbing materials. Its smooth interior resists the buildup of corrosive materials and minerals that can accumulate and clog copper pipe over time, and because it’s flexible plastic tubing, it resists freeze damage better than metal pipe.

Don’t Use Pex Outdoors
Unfortunately, pex tubing is not suitable for outdoor applications. While it resists freeze damage indoors, it won’t hold up under hard freezing and thawing conditions. And it should never be exposed to UV light, which can break down the material and cause it to fail. As such, pex plumbing should only be used for indoor plumbing applications.

Save on Maintenance, Too
Another reason to choose pex pipe for your plumbing is directly related to how easy it is to work with and install. That convenience translates into the maintenance side of things, too. If you do suffer a plumbing problem, pex is much easier for your Oklahoma City plumber to fix and replace than traditional materials, speeding up repairs and saving you on the most costly part of calling in a plumber: the labor.

Debunking the Rumors
If you’re interested in pex pipe for your Oklahoma City home, and begin to look into having it installed, you might encounter doubters who cite problems with plastic plumbing that was commonly installed back in the eighties. It’s true, plastic plumbing got a bad name for a while, largely due to a tendency to spring pin prick leaks in the pipe over time. That is a thing of the past, however. The new generation of pex tubing is made of an entirely different material, and one that has proven itself reliable and nearly maintenance free for years now. You only need to look at its widespread use by plumbers across the country to know that the old problems with plastic plumbing have been overcome by this new, innovative pex tubing.

If you’re interested in pex tubing, talk to your Oklahoma City plumber about what it will take to replace the old plumbing in your home with pex or to use it in a new home build. You’ll be amazed by the cost difference over copper, and can rest easy knowing you’re getting an excellent product to boot.